For time immemorial, the Calchaquí Valleys have witnessed stories carved in stone and written by the wind. Their landscapes, dominated by imposing mountains and an immense sky, were home to a number of ancient civilizations and, today, some of the greatest treasures of the Argentine wine scene. Over the past ten years, the area has seen extraordinary growth in its wine output, becoming the fourth largest region in the country in terms of surface area and consolidating its reputation as a shining example of the diversity of Argentine wine.
This is a region of deep valleys and high altitudes that spans the northwest of Tucumán, the north of Catamarca and, in Salta, the towns of Cachi, Molinos, San Carlos and Cafayate.
According the latest data from the National Viticultural Institute (INV), the region has 4182 hectares of vineyards distributed across 466 establishments. The growth has been remarkable: in 2000 the surface area under vine was just 2303 hectares, meaning that vineyards have expanded by 82% over the past two decades. The expansion hasn’t just seen an increase in quantity but also quality with a focus on red grapes such as Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, which account for 55% of the vineyards overall.
The climate of the Calchaquí Valleys: thermal range and distinctive soils
The climate of the Calchaquí Valleys is a key factor in the profile of the wines produced here. With mild temperatures, a large thermal range and long periods of frosts between October and April, grapes here ripen gradually. However, spring storms and hail are recurring challenges for producers. The soils are mostly sandy loam or sand with a large amount of stones in the subsoil, ensuring excellent drainage and concentration of composites in the grape.
Producers and oenologists talk enthusiastically about the distinctiveness of the soils. Rafael Domingo at Domingo Molina says that the slopes to the west of Cafayate have soils with large stones and scarce organic matter, “forcing the roots to dig deep in search of water and nutrients.” Meanwhile, Claudio Maza, at El Esteco, calls attention to the potential of his El Socorro vineyard, where calcareous stone is prevalent, “helping to produce wines with a distinctive profile.”
Irrigation water comes from the Calchaquí and Santa María rivers, as well as a number of local springs. Solar radiation is very important: the sunny mornings and milder afternoons allow for controlled ripening of the grape, resulting in fresh wines without excessively overripe notes. As Domingo explains, “good foliage management helps to avoid overripening and favors fresh, expressive profiles.”
The Calchaqui Valleys: Heights and varieties
Another key factor is the altitude, which in the region ranges from 5000 to 10,000 feet above sea level. Agustín Lanús, the oenologist at Agustín Lanús Wines, says that “the altitude has a direct impact on the concentration of the grapes, intensifying colors and delivering flavors that aren’t often found in traditional Malbecs. In addition, high altitude terroirs generally have poor, dry soils, which toughens up the vines.”
As regards the composition of the vineyards, in the Province of Salta especially, 98% of the surface area is spread between 16 varieties with Malbec the most prevalent, having expanded significantly in recent years. Between 2008 and 2017, the variety grew from 454 hectares to 1308 hectares; 853 in just under a decade. It’s followed among the reds by Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat, while Torrontés Riojano, a traditional icon of the region, is losing ground but still comes in second at 29% of the total planted surface area.
Tannat, meanwhile, has an interesting history in the region. Introduced from Entre Ríos in the 19th century, it was widely adopted in Salta where its power and structure are well suited to the local terrain. Miguel Hurtado, the first oenologist to come from Salta, identified its potential to make full-bodied, quality wines back in 1928.
Another distinctive quality of Calchaquí Wines is the presence of pyrazines, the aromatic composites responsible for green pepper notes in varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. While in other regions of the world the descriptor is associated with a lack of ripeness, here it’s regarded as a part of the wines’ identity.
The region has evolved in striking ways. In the past, the wines of the Calchaquí Valleys used to stand out for their concentration and rusticity. However, with the incorporation of new technology, agricultural practices and a more refined approach to the terroirs, the wines have developed more elegant, fresh profiles without losing their identity.
Lucía Romero, the Director of El Porvenir de Cafayate, notes that in terms of innovation, the exploration of new varieties and styles “continues to expand, as does the use of native yeasts and aging in alternative vessels such as amphorae and concrete eggs.”
All that, adds Lucía, “is accompanied by continued study of the soils and bringing in geological experts who help us to better understand the different characteristics of the region and how to use them to their best advantage in our wines.”
Some excellent examples of the new wave of wines from the region are Chañar Punco Red Blend from Bodega El Esteco; Sunal Exploración Criolla Blanca from Agustín Lanús Wines and Alto Los Cuises Malbec from Bodega El Porvenir de Cafayate.
This balance between tradition and innovation has been increasingly welcomed by the market, consolidating the Calchaquí Valleys’ reputation as one of Argentina’s most exciting wine regions.
As regards the future, Romero is forthright: “Sustainability is key in this era. We must commit to doing things better for the generations to come. Investing in certifications helps us down this path as does optimizing our use of water and energy efficiency, fundamental factors for sustainable development.”
