World famous for its stunning glaciers and animal life, Patagonia has also earned itself a notable place on the Argentine wine map.
Although many see it as a cold, arid and harsh region – quite rightly in the main – viticulturally speaking the south of Argentina is diverse and dynamic with an expanding identity across three sub-regions: Northern Patagonia, the Andes and the Extreme South.
Northern Patagonia: the gateway
Centered around Alto Valle in Río Negro and San Patricio del Chañar in Neuquén, this is the most established sub-region from both production and commercial standpoints. It is the home of pioneers such as Humberto Canale, Bodega Patritti and Bodega del Fin del Mundo.
The wines of Neuquén have notable color concentration, fruity expression and great structure, especially Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Juliana Del Águila Eurnekian, President of Bodega del Fin del Mundo, sums up the area’s identity: “Latitude plays a key role; we don’t need altitude to achieve an extensive thermal range. And the consistent wind ensures grapes with thicker skins and very concentrated polyphenols.”
Río Negro, meanwhile, has vineyards that start at about 1200 feet above sea level to the west going down to about 40 feet close to the Atlantic. Whites such as Riesling and Semillón have a distinctive mineral flavor while the reds, mainly Malbec, Merlot and Pinot Noir, develop their own identity.
Horacio Bibiloni, the head oenologist at Bodega Humberto Canale, says that Alto Valle has unique characteristics. “You find soils that are part steppe, with concentrations of clay, loamy sand and sandier coastal patches, all of which mean that a variety will express itself differently.”
The Patagonian Andes: mountain wines
Known as the Andean Shire, this winemaking subregion encompasses about 12 locations – three in Río Negro and nine in Chubut – running along the 42° Parallel Oenotourism Corridor.
Said initiative began with the pioneering vision of Patagonian Wines, the first winery to be planted in El Hoyo in 1998. The project was conceived by Bernardo Weinert, founder of Bodega y Cavas de Weinert, together with the oenologist Darío González Maldonado.
Today, in the Andean area of Trevelin, Chubut, a new viticultural hub is taking shape. Here, the climate ranges from “too cold” to “very cold” according to bioclimatic indicators, so vineyard management is key.
Sofía Elena, the oenologist at Bodega Contra Corriente, explains: “The frosts and lack of degree days are our greatest challenge. But they’re also what allow us to obtain fresh fruit with sharp acidity and subtle profiles.”
Trevelin was recognized in 2020 by the National Viticultural Institute (INV) as the first Geographic Indication (GI) in Chubut. Heavily involved in the designation were Casa Yagüe, a project led by Marcelo Yagüe and Patricia Ferrari.
The varieties that adapt best to these conditions are the ones with shorter ripening cycles: whites, Pinot Noir and Gewürztraminer, the latter with surprising results.
Extreme Patagonia: the edge of the map
Further to the south, in Sarmiento, the Otronia project sits at the most southerly edge of Argentine viticulture. Here, one needs to be daring and resilient. Juan Pablo Murgia, the head of oenology at Grupo Avinea who oversees Otronia, puts it like this: “It’s one of the coldest vineyards in the world. That has a direct effect on the natural acidity, the elegance of the wines and a truly unique expression.”
The terroir combines soils of sand, clay and alluvial rock with intense but short-lived solar exposure while the constant wind encourages the grapes to grow thicker skins, which contributes concentration and structure.
Only 16 years ago, there weren’t any vineyards in the area. Today Otronia accounts for 50% of the surface area planted in Chubut. The varieties that perform best include Pinot Noir among the reds, while Chardonnay is demonstrating a great ability to express the local terroir.
One region, multiple voices
Patagonia has 3732 hectares under vine spread across 395 vineyards, according to data from 2022. While the total surface area of the country fell by 7.4% between 2013 and 2022, Patagonia grew by 3.4%, consolidating itself as one of the few expanding regions.
Although it doesn’t produce a significant percentage of the country’s overall output, – only 1.7% of its vineyards – the average vineyard size is 9.4 hectares, above the average in Argentina of 9 hectares.
And so, each corner is exploring its own path. From well-established labels in Neuquén and Río Negro to emerging projects in Chubut, Patagonia is developing as a key region for the future of Argentine wine. If you’d like to read more about Patagonian delicacies, click here
