Malbec yesterday and today. If you’re the kind of person who likes to stay informed about wine, then you’ll certainly know what we mean when we talk about the stylistic evolution of Malbec. But if you’re not a real wine geek or just enjoy drinking without going into the technical side you may not know much about Malbec’s recent history; a little knowledge about Malbec’s recent history might just help you to decide which kind of Malbec suits you the best.
Essentially, the Malbecs we’re uncorking today are the result of a long process of study, experimentation and innovation.
First, let’s go back to the beginning of the recent evolution that has made Argentine Malbec a global hit. This is Malbec yesterday and today.
Malbec yesterday and today: an icon is born
Speaking about malbec yesterday and today, and although Malbec has been grown in Argentina since the mid-19th century, it was in the 1990s that it first rose to stardom. In a world where the opulent Cabernet Sauvignons of Napa Valley and Australian Syrahs ruled the roost, in Argentina wineries realized that they needed to focus on potent, expressive wines if they wanted to have success in the international market.
And so Malbec became an enticing alternative. It was a red that aged well in oak and could deliver good, fruity intensity with a voluminous, juicy, firm palate. Its easy-drinking, flavorful style won a lot of fans.
Malbec yesterday and today: the challenge of change
They say that you shouldn’t change a winning team and in Argentina, a footballing nation, the maxim could well also have applied to wine. However, local winemakers rarely rest on their laurels.
Around the year 2000, Malbec began to diversify. New techniques, different terroirs and a more refined approach resulted in a much wider range of styles. Today, 25 years later, we know that there’s no one kind of Malbec and that is precisely what makes it such an iconic and fascinating wine.
How many styles of Malbec are there?
That’s not an easy question to answer, but we do know that compared to the Malbecs of the past, new, more contemporary expressions offer quite distinctive profiles which will undoubtedly continue to be refined by future Argentine winemakers.
Naked Malbec
Plenty of winemakers and consumers find that the style that earned so much acclaim at the beginning of the 21st century was more about the winemaking technique – inspired by Bordeaux – than the essence of the variety and the terroir it came from. To understand the real potential of these grapes, they began to strip Malbec down, reducing the ageing and experimenting with early harvests and low-intervention methods.
Barrels were replaced by eggs and cement vats, and later on by amphorae and used barrels so as to avoid giving the wine too much of an oaky character. Thus the unoaked – or low oak – category was born creating a pure, primary Malbec in which fresh red fruit was joined by herbal flavors while in the mouth it had a vibrant fluidity and the texture differed depending on where it came from.
These wines are idea for those who prefer authentic, lighter reds with plenty of character such as Zorzal Eggo de Tiza, Ruca Malén Capítulo Tres Malbec de Ánforas, La Vigilia Malbec de Terroir Cemento, Agustín Lanús Wines Sunal Salvaje Malbec Luracatao, El Esteco Old Vine 1946, and Colomé Auténtico.
Conscientious Malbec
As sustainable viticulture has expanded, Argentina has led the way in organic and biodynamic practices and no-sulfite winemaking. This is a movement that does not just meet consumer demand but expresses a genuine philosophy of respect for the earth. In that regard, Argentina has become one of the countries that has seen the most growth in the organic development of wines such as El Salvaje Malbec Orgánico from Casa de Uco, Escorihuela Gascón Organic Vineyard Malbec, Lagarde Organic Malbec 2019 and Antigal 1 Uno Malbec Orgánico.
Among those made with no added sulfites, stand-outs are Perlas del Callejón Natural sin Sulfitos, Arroyo Grande Malbec Sin Sulfitos Orgánico from Piedra Negra and Kung Fu Malbec from Matías Riccitelli.
The third category of conscientious Malbec are the biodynamic wines, which include Alpamanta Malbec Respect, Krontiras Malbec Natural, Ayni Malbec from Chakana and Siesta en el Tahuan Single Vineyard Malbec from Ernesto Catena.
Terroir-focussed Malbec
The search for identity has inspired producers to focus on expressing their sense of place. People no longer just say “Argentine Malbec”, they mention places like Gualtallary, Altamira, Pedernal and Cachi. Each has its own personality, from the mineral tension of high altitude wines to the depth of calcareous soils. These “landscape wines” are the ones that transport us to their home region with each sip. Among those that have best refined this style are Buscado Vivo o Muerto La Verdad, Benmarco Sin Límites Valle de Pedernal, El Viticultor Malbec, and Finca Flichman Single Parcel Paraje Altamira Malbec.
Highlander Malbec
A little known treasure in Argentina are centennial vineyards. Vines that have stood the test of time, adapted to their environment and developed a rich genetic heritage. These old vine Malbecs offer the concentration, depth and complexity that only come with age. Mendoza, Salta and Patagonia all have their own historic vineyards whose preservation will be key for the identity of Argentine wine. Which should you look out for? Perhaps Luca Malbec Old Vines, Humberto Canale Old Vineyard Malbec, Alto Cedro Malbec Old Vine Malbec, Kaiken Mai Malbec and Familia Cassone Obra Prima Malbec Reserva.
Deluxe Malbec
Although Argentina has always produced premium wines, over the past decade, a luxury category has appeared that has brought Malbec to another level. Refined, with unprecedented elegance and wonderful cellar potential, these wines appear high up on international rankings of top wines and have even been sold on the Place de Bordeaux, the world’s elite wine shop window. Excellent examples include Doña Paula Selección de Bodega Malbec, Rutini Apartado Gran Malbec, Vistalba Autóctono Malbec Las Compuertas and Salentein Primus Malbec.
Malbec is always evolving and developing different characteristics and styles that continue to surprise even the most demanding drinkers. So, the next time you open a Malbec, let your curiosity run wild: behind every glass is a long history, lots of hard work and a future full of new discoveries.
