There was a time when Argentine Chenin Blanc was an unassuming variety that was found on every Argentine table, a favourite for jugs and liter bottles with screw-tops. But what was once very much a rough and ready wine has now been given an elegant makeover.
During its peak in the 80s, there were as many as 5000 hectares under vine. “Chenin Blanc is a historic variety in Argentina that was planted to make vermouth. We used it in my grandfather’s time,” remembers Laura Catena. “Now we’ve started using it again for Vincenzo Catena. There was also a classic blend of Semillón-Chenin that was consumed a lot in Argentina.”
In the 90s many vineyards were replaced by more popular varieties. Today, only 1500 hectares are left, 90% of them in Mendoza, and every row is regarded as a novel treasure.
Chenin Blanc, from oblivion to the spotlight
Roberto de la Mota was one of the pioneers of the revival of the variety with his La Primera Revancha Chenin Blanc. “The important thing is the old selections, with small bunches and well developed skins. Mendoza still has vineyards that, planted in cool, or high altitude areas, produce wines of character with significant cellar potential,” he says.
Matías Prieto from Gen del Alma, is also a fan: “Although most of it is planted in warm areas, the grapes maintain impeccable freshness. They’re essential for a number of significant white blends.” His JiJiJi Chenin Blanc, made in Villa Seca, Tunuyán, has already been compared with a few South African examples.
The revival isn’t only happening in Argentina. In the Loire Valley, Vouvray and Savennières are still flying the flag with their longevity and floral elegance while South Africa has made Chenin a flagship wine with styles ranging from plush and fruity to austere and mineral.
From the East of Mendoza to Patagonia: labels to discover
From Luján de Cuyo to Río Negro, passing through the Uco Valley, San Rafael and the oases to the East, new Argentine Chenins are challenging old prejudices.
Based in Luján de Cuyo and Maipú, Universo Paralelo is a new style for the historic winery Bodega López, whose Montchenot Blanco, 100% Chenin, is a part of the history of Argentine viticulture. Two more recent launches include Weinert Chenin Blanc and Críos Chenin Blanc Bajo Alcohol from Susana Balbo.
The east of Mendoza (Santa Rosa and Rivadavia) has the greatest surface area planted with the variety and is producing interesting examples such as Trapiche Lateral aged in amphorae and the popular Santa Julia Chenin Dulce Natural.
From the cooler terroirs of the Uco Valley hail Livvera by Germán Masera, Rocamadre Viñas Viejas by Juanfa Suárez, Polígonos del Valle de Uco Vista Flores by Sebastián Zuccardi and Propósitos from Michelini & Muffato. These are some of the more cutting edge exponents with mineral, austere, and vibrant characters.
In San Rafael, Chenin has played a key role in the history of white wine production but you won’t find many varietals. Of the few there are stand outs include Vía Blanca Terroir Selection from Bodega Iaccarini, Finca La Abeja Original and Alfredo Roca Fincas.
Finally, Matías Riccitelli has a couple of very interesting expressions using grapes from old Chenin vineyards in Río Negro, where he makes a very refined wine for his Old Vines From Patagonia and the disruptive Invader Pet-Nat.
White blends that raise the game
Chenin also thrives in company, especially in premium white blends. In Altar Uco Edad Antigua Blanco it shares a stage with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. In Geografía Extraordinaria Blancas de Uco from Escala Humana Wines, it is joined by Semillón, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc and in Altos Las Hormigas Blanco Semillón and Pedro Giménez bring their own chemistry to a notable mix.
In Agrelo, Catena Appellation Luján de Cuyo White Clay pays tribute to the Semillón-Chenin blend, while from old vines in Maipú Alejandro Sejanovich makes Tortoka Blend de Blancas, Chenin-Semillón-Chardonnay. Finally, Liga de Enólogos from Trapiche offer El Regreso, a Chenin-Semillón blend that takes the process right back to the beginning.
A jewel we mustn’t lose
“Chenin has a future because it’s planted quite widely in Argentina,” says Laura Catena. “But we shouldn’t forget that it’s in danger of being pulled up because it’s not very fashionable right now. I hope it is consumed more so that the old vines are preserved: they’re a treasure: massal, genetically diverse and direct planted, unique in the world.”
At a time when white wines are increasingly popular and diversity is also an indicator of quality, Argentine Chenin Blanc has all the ingredients to become the new obsession of wine lovers, sommeliers and treasure hunters. Deep roots, a bright future and a story that, like a good wine, gets better over time.
If you’d like more information about Chenin Blanc, you can find it here.
